The cold of the night I did not retire early to bed without first polar put my backpack. It was almost noon when I left Huautla de Jiménez . The trip took about eight hours in a truck. The manner of driving of the driver and the bumps on the bad roads were not feasible the possibility of a nap during the trip so I decided to put the iPod and enjoy music while watching the landscape, changing and varied in the area. After eating some tacos Tuxtepec began rising in the Sierra Madre.
dusk was already falling and once again the road to Huautla proved to be magical. The sun drenched his last minutes of light the great wall of mountains that stood in front of me, making the brightness intensity acquired a large orange. Do not remember if I'd seen like this before, the place has the distinction of being different every time you visit, it is never the same, in any sense. The sky was cloudless, clouds still not allowed to see. Each curve in the road left visible new high hills. There comes a time when you think that after next will see the first houses reviro Mazatec, but when you only see a new and narrow stretch of line where, in the end, fold a curve. And another and another ...
When they finally set foot in Huautla it was almost dark and the temperature was far lower than the state of Veracruz. I was surprised that there was activity in the streets close to downtown on a Wednesday at that hour. Comings and goings of people from the food stalls, clothing and crafts Oaxacan gave up the spot. The steep and narrow streets made it difficult to operate the vehicle. The city is quite labyrinthine organization may give the impression that the streets are all equal, and sometimes, quite the opposite. Huautla is extreme at all. I was so tired from the trip that I did not bother to think of nothing more than to eat something and expect the hotel bed was comfortable.
In the morning I awoke to the hustle and bustle of the market. The Mazatec come from all over the blade in the middle of Huautla to sell and buy their goods. It's hard work carrying all that weight of materials as steep slopes of the mountains, there is a continuous movement, especially women, up and down those steep roads to the burden cast on his back and fastened by a ribbon just passes through the front.
ago a couple of years that the city completed construction of the market building, a large space with cement walls, stairs and a large iron roof cold and gray, but traders still refuse to enter into all continue their positions in the street under plastic awnings, Viewed from above, give the streets an air of greenhouse Murcia while the great ship of cement remains virtually empty. Well we might call "ghost market."
I wore the sneakers, grabbed my jacket and left the hotel. Then I noticed the powerful energy of the place, a shiver ran down my back and kept my defense on continuous alert. Huautla is a place where there are doors that lead nowhere and doors that lead to everywhere. Territory of angels and demons in continual battle to establish their own order and where to end it all pays off. Hiding goblins, ogres, fairies and witches, his magical vibration makes you face intense and deep emotions are so contrary as sharp gorges of the mountains.
As he climbed the street was home to Agnes gave me the feeling that this time Huautla had more ups than downs, when I arrived I was out of breath. Agnes served me coffee and some eggs and beans with that energy that we are accustomed to visitors although that night had come from Oaxaca, selling crafts and typical clothes. It was as I remembered, it seems that no time passes. No different than when I first saw almost 10 years ago. Her dark long hair covers her small back, has deep dark eyes, strong hands and brown skin. The Mazatec are either being short and strong, remind me of the wild horse race Asturias, asturcones. Well adapted to the environment and its demands. At home they perceive small changes that were making their guests through the years. The original structure remains intact but there are many additions and some changes in the doors, stairs and windows. A small kitchen gas replaces coal brazier used to always find me on with your perola and warm goat broth ...
I was with Agnes to show us that night. I did not want to spend too much time in Huautla, my instincts told me to go as soon as possible, the demons were stronger these days. Since I got my thoughts had just taken a clear direction, I was confused about the purpose of this visit. My reasoning was telling me one thing, my heart again and my instinct whispered to me trying to clarify priorities. I've had experiences here that shape the destiny of one and always be grateful to this country for helping me grow spiritually. I had reservations before the ceremony when he appeared Toshi, a visitor who came from Japan because I had read in a book just published here, on experiences in the home of Agnes. I thought it might be a nice ceremony, given the terrible events that are happening in his country and dispelling my doubts and I decided to be present and participate in communion. Toshi smiled as he explained how Jonh Agnes Lennon asked him to dance while playing the guitar back in 68, when Agnes was only 8 or 9 years and I did the translation to Maria Sabina. It was the first experience of Toshi with the "good kids" and wanted me to accompany him. In total there were five of these, Juvenal took care of us. Inés
icaros we sang his songs with religious Mazatec while "diosecitos" he cradled in his possession. Dream images around me in my head sounded as Mercedes Sosa with his "give joy to your heart" and "good kids" played with the energy in my solar plexus. Ines wiping us and protected us rubbing her "San Pedrito" by our body. My trip took about three or four hours, when I returned I was exhausted and pensive. changes have not yet finished, I must be prepared to continue . The message was clear. Remains to be clean and empty bags to save weight on the road. Despite the physical and emotional exhaustion was pleased by the experience, in the end everything is as it should be, all in time .... I felt that things had changed since that comes first, but I had also changed and now my experience gave me a new perspective on the memories and the things learned.
The next day I said goodbye to Agnes, of that sacred land, and went back to Catemaco taking a last look at the sky to see once more the flight of those magnificent eagles caressing the sun.
Picture by Nur, 2011 Huautla
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